Mar 30, 2022

How does packaging evolve with changing cosmetic formulas

The experts at Lumson look at make up trends and developments following the COVID-19 pandemic and present their new customisable lipstick pack, Sign.
Elisabeth Skoda

The make-up market was one of the most penalized by the pandemic. While make-up products suffered from the changes in social habits and the use of masks, the demand for skincare products has increased.

There has been an exponential increase in skincare and “hybrid” cosmetics, products that are halfway between a treatment and make-up. In the last 10 years, skincare has grown almost 60%, reaching 142 billion $ in 2020 (with an estimated CAGR of 4.69% for the next 5 years). While the pandemic has undoubtedly been a powerful push in skincare development, it is not the only reason behind this boom.

Various factors have contributed to the success of skincare and to the evolution of make-up towards make-care - less colour, more treatment- in addition to the pandemic: the introduction of numerous indie brands on the market that are able to quickly meet the needs of consumers,  especially those belonging to younger generations, the spread of marketing claims focused on the use of active ingredients, and a return to cosmetic minimalism.

The latter, in particular, has centered attention on a new mantra: less but better. Fewer ingredients in formulas, fewer products to use in the daily beauty routine, but more attention to efficacy. All of which has enormously influenced the world of colour cosmetics bringing about a make-up evolution that first reached face products and then gradually all the others.

Lip products have also undergone a transformation. And while lipsticks have remained the main make-up products, within the category there’s been sensible growth in the importance of healing and tinted properties. Products for everyone that are need-specific and enriched with functional and naturally-sourced active ingredients.

In a context where consumption habits are in continual evolution and consumers request different products with respect to the past, packaging, an integral part of a cosmetic product, has had to “shed its skin” as well.

The “classic” formulas have made room for products with “added benefits”, for no-transfer, long-lasting products resistant to smudging from masks…The world of cosmetics packaging has had to come to terms with this change and study solutions that involve not only aesthetics but also functionality, safety, and sustainability.  

Lumson has developed a series of proposals for the lip world, 100% made in Italy, that combine aesthetics and functionality, safety and sustainability. All of which has been possible thanks to the profound know-how in lipstick design and development brought by Leoplast, an Italian company purchased by Lumson in 2017.

Leoplast has been operating in the sector of injection moulding of lipsticks, caps, capsules, and containers for make-up since 1978 and has been working with L’Oréal Paris since 1989, producing Color Riche, one of the famous French cosmetic brand’s most iconic lipsticks. In 42 years of history, Color Riche has been put on the market infinite times with new finishes and decorations.

Sustainability is among the topics that have strongly emerged in the cosmetic world over the last few years. A topic that has also greatly affected packaging. To meet functionality demands in an eco-friendly way, the synergy between Lumson and Leoplast has led to the creation of an “eco-friendly” collection realized with recyclables and/or recycled materials: PP, PCR PP, PCR ABS, and later, a mono-material lipstick made from a bio-based material.

In 2022, as a tribute to lipstick, the most iconic of make-up products, Lumson launched its new lipstick- Sign. The unique characteristic of Sign is the metal insert on the cap that can be customized with logos, designs, and icons through debossing technology. Furthermore, it’s possible to add colour to the insert, playing with shiny or satin effects. The lipstick has a diameter of 12.7. The base, mechanism and cap are made of PP.

Elisabeth Skoda

Editor of Touchpoints magazine, writer for Packaging Europe magazine and design enthusiast!
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